The Amenities, If You Please

A Step Up from Meat and Potatoes

Webmaster Chris Rowley attaches a refinished cast iron guard to a basement window. Such artifacts are found throughout the historic and architecturally interesting St. Louis neighborhoods.

At the other end of the eating experience spectrum can be found Gus' Pretzel Shop, located on the corner of Arsenal and Lemp. Even if its fare be ever so humble, the shop enjoys a devoted following. "Its just across the street from us, so we enjoy pretzel snacks several times a month," Tim Mulligan remarks, adding that "another special treat for us is Sunday dinners at the Lemp Mansion." Lester Washington, a St. Louis native, observes that "bringing hot pretzels from Gus' to the office is always a big hit." He works as car sales systems manager for Enterprise Rent-A-Car in Clayton.

Dating from 1920, the third generation pretzel business is now run by August and Suzanne Koebbe in their recently expanded facility. "Our location near the highway and the business from the people at the brewery and the neighborhood are strengths," Gus points out.

The iconic status of the pretzel shop is also enjoyed by the nearby Venice Cafe on the corner of Lemp and Pestalozzi. Architect Mike Killeen reports that "my favorite thing to do is sit in the Venice Cafe courtyard in the warm weather, eat jerk chicken and drink beer - early, before the cover charge." Mike met his wife when he crashed a back yard party her parents were giving at their home in Richmond Heights. Gale Ormiston adds that "Venice Cafe has so much character. You have to love it."

Under the guidance of Jeff Lockheed, Venice Cafe has morphed into "an alternative culture landmark here in River City." More than a bar, less than a restaurant, the cafe enjoys a "lot of regulars and an expanding reputation spread by word of mouth," Lockheed explains. Charles Hooker adds that Jeff himself is a Benton Park institution, "helping to move the neighborhood along during the lean years."

Also not to be missed in the constellation of stars in Benton Park is Frazer's Restaurant, formerly Frazer's Brown Bag, and Yemanja Brasil. Sharen McCabe, the New Jersey native and walker and bicyclist, adores Frazer's. "I have spent many hours enjoying late dinners there with friends," she remembers, and Mark Olsen, the Virginia native, reports that he and his wife "love Yemanja Brasil - it is such a unique flavor in this neighborhood." The cuisine there can be described as Brazilian.

The owner of Yemanja Brasil, Lenya Sidki, is originally from Brasilia, Brazil. In the territory to get her fine arts degree from Fontbonne College, Lenya couldn't resist the deal on her storefront at 2900 Missouri. That was eleven years ago. Nine years ago she opened the doors of her restaurant, specializing in dishes from her homeland. Her mom, originally a St. Louis native, moved south of the border after meeting her husband in college.

Cooking with a Brazilian accent is offered by Yemanja Brasil, a unique and colorful Benton Park restaurant owned and operated by Lenya Sidki. (People Productions photo by Clark Rowley)

Marian Amies, the English element in the neighborhood, comments that "I love Frazer's, Yemanja Brazil and the Venice Cafe, as well as restaurants and shops in Soulard, Lafayette Square and McKinley Heights. This is a walking neighborhood, as it has always been, and there are so many interesting places within walking distance." She also likes to ride her bicycle, and the neighborhood offers easy access to the Riverfront and Katy trails.

In addition to the pleasures of the table, there are also the attractions of antique row on Cherokee Street. Six blocks of shops, many boasting cast iron store fronts, range along Cherokee, the southern border of the neighborhood. Cherokee Street is now in the process of reinventing itself, according to Jennifer Sweeney, president of the Cherokee Antique Row Merchants Association. "We are experiencing a healthy diversification," she explains. "While antiques will continue to be our focus, restaurants, an antique and fur outlet, which will deal in new and pre-owned furs and fur and leather cleaning and alterations, a native American Indian arts store, an antique mall and an acupuncture and yoga service are setting up shop," Jennifer notes. Originally from a small Illinois town (population: 1200), she lives above her store with her two alley cats, Johnnie One Spot and Scardie.

Tim Mulligan recalls that "we spent many hours browsing on Cherokee Street before we had children," and Mike Killeen also reveals an interest in shopping there, as well as admiring "the beautiful old buildings in our eclectic neighborhood."

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